Scott Huggins reckons it felt like buying a lottery ticket. Then his number came up.
Two Michelin stars. That’s what Magill Estate, his restaurant, scored on Wednesday night. It was the top honour of the night as the famous guide handed out its very first Michelin stars in Australia.
And every single one went to South Australia.
A world first for Australia
Until now, Australian chefs had to work overseas if they wanted a shot at a Michelin star. Not anymore.
The ceremony was held at the Adelaide Convention Centre, red carpet and all. Michelin’s international director, Gwendal Poullennec, didn’t undersell it.
He called it “an historic milestone”. After all, it’s the first time the guide has ever rated Aussie restaurants. The winners, he said, were “all putting South Australia on the world culinary map.”
Who got a star
Eleven SA venues walked away with stars.
Magill Estate was the only one to get two. Huggins is the chef, and the restaurant looks out over Penfolds’ Magill Estate.
Ten more got one star each. Anvers, Maxwell, Botanic and Hentley Farm are on the list. So is Arkhé, where Jake Kellie cooks, and Alanna Sapwell’s Esmay.
Aurora at ILA made it. LVN Restaurant at Bird In Hand did too. Aptos got one, with Justin James in the kitchen. Skillogalee Barrel House rounds it out.
It’s not just an Adelaide thing, either. McLaren Vale, the Adelaide Hills and the Barossa Valley all have winners.
Dozens more venues and chefs were recognised in other ways. There’s a young chef award now, too. Its first winner? Shakaan Abillion from Shobosho. Premier Peter Malinauskas says 77 SA venues are now recognised by Michelin in total.
Happy tears
For Huggins, it’s a “dream that’s come true.” He knows how hard a star is to get. Some chefs have moved to France and opened restaurants just trying to win one, he said.
At Esmay, there were tears all round. Sapwell wants to see Michelin go national, though. It should be inclusive, she said, and spread right across Australia.
Justin James is American. To him? It’s up there with the Super Bowl and the Oscars.
And Arkhé’s Jake Kellie says Sydney’s food crowd is pretty jealous. They’d love the same chance SA got to put itself on the world map.
What did it cost SA?
Here’s the bit nobody’s saying out loud. The SA government did a commercial deal to bring Michelin here.
How much did taxpayers pay? We don’t know. The government says the price is confidential, for commercial reasons.
Malinauskas reckons it’s money well spent. “Worth its weight in gold,” is how he put it.
The pitch is all about tourism. The hope is that food lovers from overseas will book flights to Adelaide just to eat.
Food advocate Mandy Hall called it “life-changing” for the chefs. That Michelin stamp sticks with them now.
Can you get a table?
Good luck, at least in the short term. Stars tend to bring a rush of bookings. Got your eye on one of these? Get in early.
If fine dining’s not in the budget, the wider Michelin list is worth a look. Many of the 77 recognised venues aren’t starred restaurants at all.
Where to from here
For now, Michelin stars in Australia belong to South Australia alone. Whether the guide ever heads to Sydney, Melbourne or anywhere else is anyone’s guess.
Until then, SA has bragging rights. And Scott Huggins has his lottery win.